Tanzania safari report - day 4

Up at 5am, breakfast at 5:30 and off we went into crater at 5:59am. The gate opens at 6am, and the gate is just outside of camp. I prefer to camp at Ngorongoro because of a few reasons:

1) Fastest access to the crater floor. The lodges on the other side of the rim have a minimum of 45 minutes to drive around the rim and then down the descent road (which sucks). We are down in 10 minutes.

2) Privacy. 'Nuff said.

3) Sights and sounds of the bush. Yes, the lodges hear the same, but not from your insulated room!

4) I get to control the dining schedule. This means I get a warm meal at 5:30am, instead of 6am at best. If you are at a lodge, you are in the crater at 7am at best. Early bird gets the worm in my book.

Ok, back to our day today.

We arrived at the crater floor and quicly intercepted the majority of the pride that works an area we know very well. The pride has 12 lions, and we saw all but the large, dark-maned male. We had to shoot at ISO 6400 due to the low light, however we stayed until the light was ample and the lions moved up a hill and away. What a great way to start the day. The rest of the morning and afternoon were filled with plains game, and I took the opportunity to teach blurred panning shots. A heavy rain came around lunchtime, and we waited it out for a while near Ngoitokitok Springs.

The crater is green and lush these days, as the long rains seem to have arrived early. In a typical year it would start in mid March, however rains have been plentiful for at least the past month. Some sightings have been challenging due to the high grass, however there are enough opportunities that it hasn't been an issue. Serengeti may be a different story, but I doubt it.

We ended the day watching and photographing the same pride that we saw in the morning. Boy, were they active. With four young males that were about 2 years old, they were playing jumping all over each other. It was a very rich opportunity for some behavior shots. Oh, and I shot it all on video, but I did wish that I had my Nikon equipment with me. My only camera is a 6x24cm panorama film camera. I have shot 9 exposures so far (3 rolls of film). Crazy, I know.

Tanzania safari report - day 3

We left Tarangire National Park this morning, and drove across the Maasai Steppe and up to our camp on the Ngorongoro Crater rim. The weather was windy, chilly and slightly overcast. We ate a nice lunch at camp and then headed down into the crater for the afternoon.

Afternoons in Ngorongoro are typically much less active than the mornings, however today had some nice action in store for us. We saw a lioness stalk and run after a young wildebeest, which was quite the sight. Then we watched a large female hyaena pull a zebra carcass out from the water. And the end of the afternoon can only be described as the largest concentration of large bull elephants I have ever seen. I typically see between 10 and 20 bulls in the crater, but today there must have been 50 bulls within sight of each other. And most of these guys had *huge* tusks. My 2006 BBC Wildlife Photographer of the Year winning image was of a bull with acacia thorns in his mouth, and on that safari I didn't see many elephants in the crater. Today was insane.

We just finished a nice meal, and we will be up at 5am tomorrow. A full day in the crater is in store, and I hope that we run into the large lion pride that works the Munge River, as they are over 20 strong.

Time to close the tent flaps, as it is getting chilly right now. I hear our Maasai guide outside tending the fire, so he should be warm and comfy tonight.

Tanzania safari trip report day 2 - Tarangire

Today we were up at 5:30 and were out of camp by 6:15, which is not bad for our first early day. Typically it is a little challenging for the first few days, as jet lag is a real force to be reckoned with. Our group was chomping at the bit to get out and see what Tarangire is all about. We are camping along the southern shore of Lake Burunge, and we headed east and north to move to the northern part of the park. We drove through what I can only describe as the most dense tsetse fly are that I have ever dealt with. 20 minutes of constant swatting, biting and scratching. It sucked! My ankles still feel like a raw piece of steak.

The weather was warm today, with big puffy clouds in every direction. No rain today, however the park doesn't need it right now. Today was not a predator day, which is very normal for Tarangire. Today was all about elephants and giraffe. I was blown away by the number of elephants. We likely saw between 500 and 1000 individuals, with half of them being within distance to get good photos. I think my travelers have no idea how truly special this is, as most of them have never been to Africa before.

We had a very nice picnic lunch at Silale swamp, which is extremely lush at the moment. You can always count on a pair of African fish eagles there, and today was no exception. My head guide, Kileo, had a bad stomach ache, so I went back to camp a little early to make sure he was well taken care of. I have a virtual pharmacy with me on these safaris, so I did my best to help out.

We worked with our digital images before dinner, and I did a slideshow of my past successful and unsuccessful photos in an attempt to teach composition, lighting, storytelling, depth of field, blurred panning and wildlife behavior. Knowing when to take the best shot was probably what most people wanted to know more about.

Tomorrow we will leave Tarangire, and we will drive across the Maasai Steppe and head up into the Ngorongoro Highlands. I cannot wait to get up to 7,000 feet, where we will have our camp along the crater rim.

Tanzania safari report day 1 - Tarangire

Today we woke up and left Arusha for the green grasses and flowing waters of Tarangire National Park. The park is a natural watering hole because of the winding Taangire River, which at the moment is flowing at a breakneck pace. Recent rains has caused the park to have plenty of water, and the grass here is quite tall. Wildlife sightings were quite good today, beginning with a lioness on a giraffe kill on the high plains that overlook the valley.

Tarangire is typically all about the elephants, and today did not disappoint. We ran into no less than 15 family units on our afternnon game drive, and all seemed to be moving down towards the flowing river in the afternoon heat. We even saw the very rare oryx, which is not a natural fit for this environment.

There were rain clouds surrounding us all afternnon, and signs of recent rains were abundant. Did we even have a dry season this year, or did the long rains arrive early? I think it will be interesting to drive by Lake Manyara in 2 days, as it was bone dry when I flew over the lake in October.

My guests are absolutely fantastic, and all really love our luxury camping accommodations. We were greeted by fresh juice, cold hand towels and big smiles by the Thomson Safaris camp staff. After a hot shower, I watched the sun set behind the Ngorongoro highlands to the west. Cold beer. Check. Camp fire. Check. It is great to be back in a country that I love so much.

Tomorrow will be a full day, for sure. Up a 5:30 and out of camp by 6:15. I hear a lion roaring to the north of Lake Burunge, so I know which direction I want to head in the morning.

Namibia Workshop announcement

Namibia Photographic Safari

September 20-30, 2010

 

In September 2010 John Paul Caponigro will lead a private group of photographers into Namibia's untamed wilderness areas. The goal of this safari is to photograph the breathtaking desert landscapes of Namibia. This will be a flying safari and we will maximize the time out on safari by flying from location to location. This will enable us to carry an adequate amount of camera baggage, do some aerial photography of scenic locations, and eliminate time-consuming, long drives. This will be a serious instructional safari with a strong focus on teaching in the field.

Safari Highlights

• This private flying safari covers fascinating attractions in Namibia, while enjoying much of the stunning landscapes from the air.
• We will fly to three amazing destinations in central and northern Namibia: Kolmanskop, The Namib Desert / Sossusvlei, and the incredible Skeleton Coast.
• Kolmanskop is a famous ex-diamond mining ghost town which today is fighting a losing battle against the winds and sand dunes that are enveloping it... the photography here is striking and we will make two separate visits to the ghost town to make images. Truly a photographer's dream location.
• The Namib Desert may well be the world's oldest desert. The apricot-colored dunes at Sossusvlei are some of the most beautiful landscapes on earth. Herds of mountain zebra, gemsbok and springbok roam the area.
• The Skeleton Coast is one of our planet's most remote locations. It is wild, desolate, uninhabited and stunningly beautiful. This is a place the will rival anything in Africa for those who enjoy the excitement of wild and remote places.
• In all the areas we visit, you will have the opportunity to spend quality photographic time.
• Personalized instruction with John Paul throughout the safari.
• Safari is limited to 11 participants.

For more detailed information on this workshop, click here. If you are interested in this exciting safari, please email me at info@andybiggs.com.

Here are some images from the locations that will be visited:

Kolmanskop deserted diamond mining town

Namib desert from our private charter plane

The dead trees at Deadvlei (Sossusvlei)

The towering dunes of Sossusvlei

Driving over and through the dunes at Skeleton Coast N.P.

Running down the dunes at Skeleton Coat N.P.

My 2010 and 2011 schedule

I started jotting down my 2010 and 2011 schedule for my workshops and other travel obligations, and the next 2 years are going to be atrociously exciting. Here is a quick summary:

February 25 - March 9, 2010 = Tanzania photo safari (sold out)

March 6 - 19, 2010 = Tanzania photo safari (a few spots left)

April 28 - May 2, 2010 = Arches and Canyonlands workshop (spots available, but not many)

May 15-23, 2010 = Galapagos islands workshop (sold out)

July 21-August 1, 2010 = Botswana photo safari (sold out)

August 3-12, 2010 = African Wildlife Photography Boot Camp (sold out)

October 2011 = private trip to Ethiopia (tentative)

February 20 - March 4, 2011 = Tanzania photo safari (open for booking. Please inquire)

July 4-12, 2011 = Botswana photo safari (open for booking. Details will be posted shortly)

July 12-21, 2011 = Botswana photo safari (open for booking. Details will be posted shortly)

September 2011 (dates not set yet) = Rwanda's mountain gorillas and Kenya's Masai Mara (planning stages right now)

November/December 2011 = Antarctica on a private charter with friends Seth Resnick and John Paul Caponigro. (planning stages right now. Please inquire to be put on a notification list.

Wow. Looks like my next 24 months are going to be crazy. Crazy. Crazy. And this is only my schedule. I also have safaris and workshops that are being led by other people.

What are you doing in March? How about a trip to Tanzania.

I got a really late start announcing my March 6, 2010 Tanzania safari, and as a result I still have some spots available for this photographic safari. Here are some bullet points:

Dates: March 6-18, 2010

Where: Tanzania

Parks visited: Serengeti National Park (2 camp locations), Ngorongoro Crater and Tarangire National Park

Tanzania, south of Kenya on the African continent's Indian Ocean coastline, lays claim to the title Home of the Safari, since the word itself is taken from the Swahili word that means "journey." While Tanzania's Kenyan neighbors may dispute that claim, there is no doubt that Tanzania offers one of the best environments in the world for an enriching wildlife experience. The country's game viewing opportunities are considered by many to be the best in Africa. Its game parks are populated with many of the world's most exotic creatures, including all of the "Big Five." Its lakes are huge and bountiful with fish. Its cities are relaxed and friendly. Yet, to a greater degree than is true of many of its neighbors, this sprawling county, the largest in East Africa, remains untouched by the vacationing hordes.

It's About Photography — Lots of it

This workshop will be very informal and fun. I will be shooting alongside you at all times. We will have discussion and assistance on specialized topics such as, for example, long lens technique, projection flash usage, action shooting, wildlife observation, field craft and east African animal behavior. Advanced techniques will be constantly discussed, demonstrated and put into practice.

This workshop is about shooting. Lots of shooting. There will be no classroom sessions, no lectures, no slide shows, and most importantly, no unnecessary egos. We will all work closely together, sharing our knowledge and experience.

Because of the unique location of this workshop, and the luxury accommodations, this workshop adventure is open to spouses as well as photographers. Even non-photographers will find the locales visited and the wildlife viewing opportunities to be thrilling. The cost for non-photographers is the same as for active participants.

For the complete schedule and more details, you can click on this link for more information.

Please email me at andybiggs@gmail.com if you have an interest in this safari. There are only a few spots left!

Luminous Landscape Video Journal #19

The Luminous Landscape has just released their Video Journal episode #19, and this issue includes an amazing amount of video footage from our Namibia safari from April 2006. There are other great segments, as well, however I was most interested in seeing the video from our Namibia trip.

We visited 4 different locations in Namibia on that trip: Kolmanskop, Namibi Rand, Sossusvlei and Serra Cafema. LLVJ #19 contains more than 46 minutes of footage from that incredible trip. Michael and I waited to do an on-camera discussion about the trip until we were out on safari again, and that didn't happen until last September when we were in Botswana together. Yes, our Botswana safari should eventually be a Video Journal piece, as well.

As a side note, I do have a safari again to Namibia next September 2010. My friend John Paul Caponigro is leading the trip, and there is still some space available. We have no specific plans to return to Namibia beyond next year, so if you are planning your 2010 vacation or holiday schedule, this could be your ticket.

Click here to see a quick preview.

Click here for the LL checkout page to purchase the video (I have no financial interest in this or any of the videos on Lumionous Landscape).

Click here to see my September 2010 Namibia Photographic Safari.